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As the sun rises over Sadana Island and the fringe reef connecting it to shore,
archaeologists begin another day

A Typical Day at Sadana Island
By Cheryl Ward, Ph.D.


Archaeologists at INA-Egypt's Sadana Island camp confront two sharply contrasting environments as they go about the business of excavating a 165-foot-long ship more than 100 feet beneath the sea. Camped in a windy desert, the international crew deals with both sand in their army surplus cots and working less than an hour on site each day while wearing heavy diving gear.

As Melissa Zabecki, a 1996 crew member, put it, "When I write my parents to tell them what a great time we're having out here, I realize that I can't tell them what I really do or they would worry too much. If I told them that I put on a rubber suit and 55 pounds of equipment and weights, trudged along a narrow path lined with sea urchins for 350 feet, climbed up an eight-foot-high diving platform and then threw myself headfirst into 120 feet of water, they'd be over here on the first plane. But I really do love it."


Archaeologists use this two-ton, steel platform to bridge the dangerous meeting between land and sea

The sun rises over Sadana Island before 6 a.m. all summer. By turning to the west, you can watch its light ripple along the granite mountains of the Eastern Desert, painting them a glowing red and suggesting one reason the Red Sea is called red. By 6:15, an INA-Egypt staff member has rung the large triangle at the mess tent in the camp's center to wake the crew, and a second clanging at 6:30 calls us in to breakfast.

Hot, heavily sugared tea, a boiled egg, tomato and cucumber slices, white cheese, jam and baladi (pide) bread disappear quickly. A 10-minute dive meeting gives the director time to assign shared camp chores, review progress at different areas of the site, and call out the day's dive order and maximum depths, times and safety stops for decompression. Because our 35 team members cannot dive all at once, not only must we start as early as possible in the morning, but we must also dive in groups of 2 or 3 pairs of buddies, so the logistics can be complex.

In order to satisfy the rules of the physical world and safeguard our physical health, we typically spend less than 30 minutes at work on the bottom each time we dive. We strictly enforce diving safety standards and, as a result, have completed nearly 3,000 dives with no incidents of decompression sickness at Sadana Island. In simple terms, this means that we calculate our dive time based on the U.S. Navy dive tables for 10 feet deeper or follow the instructions of our Uwatech/Dynatron computers if they require longer decompression times. Each dive, no matter what the depth, ends with a five-minute safety stop at a depth of 10 feet to assist the diver's body as it readjusts to a more normal atmospheric pressure. Luckily, we dive off a spectacular coral reef with hundreds of colorful fish to watch as we wait.

After a quick toothbrushing, the first dive group and the day's timekeepers head for the equipment tent to don wetsuits, air tanks and other gear. Plastic artifact crates and air bags, as well as a stretcher for larger artifacts and smaller containers or tools must be returned to the bottom for the day's work. Buddies check each other's gear to make sure air is turned on and not leaking improperly from any of the tiny joints and O-rings that together comprise our safety net, then head for the steel platform at the reef's north edge.

The two-ton bridge of wood and steel exists to allow us to safely cross a sharply eroded and dangerous reef. It also allows us to recover artifacts more securely and serves as a base for water pumps that power our primary excavation tools. During the dive, two timekeepers keep watch for those beneath the sea and provide audible recall signals two minutes before the archaeologists must leave the bottom and at the end of the dive. Once the first team of 4-6 individuals is at the stop below the platform, the next group leaps into the water, gets an okay signal from the timekeeper, and kick to begin their descent.

Before reaching the bottom, we all remove our fins. This simple procedure prevents damage to delicate wooden structures or areas under excavation. The site is quite sandy, and fin removal also keeps the sand on the bottom, rather than in the water. Some prefer to clip their fins to a loop on their buoyancy compensator while others tie them to a designated coral head above the site before collecting the tools they need for working in their area.

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Work on the bottom, even at 130 feet, is not much different than work on land. The archaeologist's favorite tools are always the measuring tape and a pencil and notebook; our tapes are waterproof and our notebooks made of hard plastic sheeting, but documenting an object's context is the most important aspect of our job. Excavation is slow and careful, using a technique known as hand-fanning.

We don't fill buckets with sand; instead, we move our fingers, hands or arms in rhythmic, even swoops above the sand's surface to create a local current that lifts the sand away from its centuries-old resting place. Water dredges (oversized suction hoses) pull the sand into hoses that discharge their burden in the depths below the site, thus keeping the sand from smothering and choking the coral on the reef above us.

Usually the archaeologists will try to do all of one sort of task on a dive: some dives are devoted to tagging exposed timbers or artifacts; on others, we measure from known points to triangulate each artifact before it is moved or raised. Still other dives are spent setting up new equipment under water or in photography and documentation of the work and the site. Each person is assigned to a particular area and is responsible for its excavation and mapping, just as on land sites. But instead of eight hours at work, we have only one, split into two dives each day.

At the end of the dive, buddies slowly ascend together, often with a basket of artifacts or wood for further research on shore. After the safety stop, the archaeologists head for the surface, climb the platform's ladder, cinch their weight belts to its railings, and then make their way back to shore, carrying baskets of artifacts with them if needed.

A conservation squad usually meets incoming divers to take the crated objects to our storage tank built at the edge of the sea. We keep everything immersed in water in order to prevent damage caused by crystallizing salts or collapsing cellular structure until we can stabilize the archaeological finds at our conservation laboratory in Alexandria.

Meanwhile, the divers strip off their gear, rinse off, and have a quick cup of tea and a biscuit before going to work again. Each person has a designated land job as well as the underwater work. We have a recorder who keeps a journal of each archaeologist's efforts and observations of their area with maps and object lists to prevent loss of data. Others catalog artifacts by describing their composition, shape, decoration and dimensions. Still others will be busy drawing wood fragments or emptying jars to separate organic traces of the ship's original cargo from the sand and shells that overlay these clues to the past.

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But most of the crew ends up training with our conservator, Howard Wellman, or with master concretionologists Emad Khalil and Douglas Haldane, as they learn to remove the naturally occurring concretion that coats many of our objects. Imagine mixing up a gallon of cement, dumping in a pound of popcorn shrimp (shells, heads and all), a handful of broken seashells, and then coating your grandmother's best china dinner plates in the mix and you will have a good idea of what we confront as we excavate the Sadana Island shipwreck.

Using scalpel and razor blades, the crew spend hours each day flaking away tiny specks of calcareous deposits to reveal brilliantly colored porcelain and dull brown earthenware-more than 3,000 objects have been at least partially cleaned to date, thanks to the concerted efforts of our conservators and dedicated team.

Lunch, another dive meeting, and a siesta (or more work) for an hour or so, then back to work. The afternoon dives usually take place between 4 and 6:30 pm, leaving the last team to walk in under twilight skies above blue-purple mountains in the west. During the afternoon, our camp manager Adel Farouk returns from his almost daily visits to Hurgada, 45 minutes north, where we get not only equipment and tools, but food, bread and ice for our coolers. Everyone helps unload the supplies, hoping for letters from home or even the ice cream bars Adel sometimes stashes in the coolers as a special treat. The water truck, which brings our fresh water from a town at the end of a desert pipeline originating at the Nile, is supposed to come every two days unless the driver's cousin gets married or he has to go get a permit or license renewed, in which case we scrounge drinking water from a campground or gas station.

Evenings begin as the sun sets. Everyone has showered the salt from their skin and changed into relatively clean clothes. Small groups congregate in and around the mess tent, some focused on an impromptu barbering or game, others simply sitting in silence as the sea and desert offer up their night colors. Once the generator is turned on, dinner is served and talk in Arabic, English, Swedish or German resumes. Later, cleared tables provide work surfaces for letter writing, journal keeping, and, always, archaeological drafting and documentation to keep up with the day's accomplishments. Howard Wellman spends his evenings in the conservation tent monitoring the progress of cleaning tasks and going through the day's finds with the archaeological director before keeping his own journals of artifact numbers and storage basins.

At ten o'clock, lights out, except for the photographer and darkroom assistants, who reward their late night developing and printing duties with a bit of chocolate pudding before turning in.

White tents shine in the light of a million stars, and often billow in the north wind as the camp lies still at last. But dawn comes early, six days a week, for the volunteer archaeological divers at Sadana Island.